Developing a new design … how do i do it ?

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Design developing ? did you ever thought how does it work

It is always look so easy on You tube when you see a 2 minute video of a designer ( or goldsmith )develop a new design.

But what is the full process ? is it really that easy ?

Well … here are the steps needed to develop a silver ( or brass ) ring.

First step – Sketching the design

You need to make a clear sketching for few designs that will be detailed enough to pass them foreword.

There is always the option to make a 3D file with RHINO or AUTO-CAD.

skull ring sketchingskull ring sketching

This is a great example of skull ring designs that I am starting to develop.

A great advice is even if you don”t use the sketch – Keep it in a folder , most chances that you will use it.

Step 2 – Wax making

In this step there there are 2 options –

First option is to create the wax mold in a special 3D machine that will take a CAD file

( you need to take the sketching and build a CAD file from it )and make the wax using the machine ).

This option is better to use for High end jewelry with a lot of stone setting ( micro setting ).

The second option is to make the wax by hand or to give a wax maker the sketching if you don”t know how to carve wax ,

I prefer this option for my style of jewelry that are handmade jewelry .

skull wax bead wax feather bangle

A talented wax maker is priceless –

He will know how to make the design clean , thin enough when needed and detailed and clear to prevent future production problems .

Step 3 – Master Casting  

Usually to will not have your own Casting factory so you will need to give it to a factory that you are producing with.

There are few points that are important when making a Master –

  • always make a master using Sterling silver ,
  • even if your production will be in brass or stainless steel. using silver will be better to have a more clean detailed master.
  • Recheck that there are no reject on the wax that need to be fixed as this wax is going to be melt and become silver that is harder to fix ….
  • Be clear were to attache the waterway , as it will be in the same spot in every pic .

Step 4 – Clean the waterway and polish the master  

Few small points in here as well –

  • Be careful with the Dremel \ Foredom  when clean the waterway and clean small dots in clean surface .
  • please note that Machine polish is not a replacement for hand polish , use both .
  • before sending the  master to make the rubber don”t forget to laser stamp your logo and also the 925 stamp if production will be in silver ,
  • it will save a lot of time in production, and time is money.silver ring master

Step 5 – Rubber or Silicon mold.

It is very important that in this stage , after investing so much time and money with the process.

To make a proper Mold ,

use the best long lasting material to have the the best results even when the rubber was used 500 or 1000 time per production.

A small tip –

  • the cost of the mold is not high , if you have an item that you know you will use in big qty then make few molds from the same pic ,
  • to save time in production process.
  • one more tip – i use a lot of small beads and charms ,
  • after first production i make one mold that have 4 – 8 pcs in it . it save a lot of time and cost .


When you have the Mold finished you are finally done developing the design,

There are few more tips that I studied during the years that i think are very important –

  • Build a folder that will have all the masters and molds with code numbers in it , never keep it with suppliers even if you trust them .
  •  I am saying it for many reasons –
  • first you don”t know if the casting company is working
  • with competitor that will be happy to use the design that you create ,
  • more then that the rubber mold can be use a limited times till it need to be replaced ,
  • so even if the design is the most basic but the supplier will use your rubber to
  • make another person order you will need to pay for a new mold very often .